Donegal, Castlerock (Bann 9) & RP - September 2020
A long awaited return to a County with a burgeoning reputation, a pit stop at a 9 holer in Coleraine and onwards to the site of the 148th Open Championship.
When you mention to Dublin folk that you are going to Donegal, they immediately assume that you are travelling to Donegal Golf Club in Murvagh, I’m not sure what that says about us city slickers….perhaps a lack of adventure, perhaps something else.
At the start of September 2020 an opportunity arose to do an immersive trip to the wilds of the Northwest coast. Instead of flitting about the place like a ‘blue arsed fly’, I decided to base myself in Rosapenna to explore the twin delights of the muscular modern links that is Sandy Hills and the somewhat more traditional Old Tom Morris offering.
Fleeting glimpses of mechanical machinery and shaping paraphernalia were caught from the boundary fence separating Sandy Hills and the St. Patrick’s site. Funnily enough that’s not all that was caught (someone might have got caught on an electric fence while trying to take a closer look of the construction site (sorry Frank, I couldn’t help myself)…..ouch….I can still feel the reverberations through my…… you get the picture, well hopefully you don’t, but can figure out my innuendo sufficiently!).
It had been some 18 years since I had darkened the door of Rosapenna, back then it had just been the Old Tom course, with the original routing. It might be useful to explain what was and indeed was not there back then (this could get complicated!)
The Colt inspired Valley 9 (now the back 9 of Old Tom) was in play as the front nine
The Coastguard (original back 9) still had it’s three road crossings still in play (yikes) heading searchingly Northeastwards around the hill and back toward the golf pavilion
The Strand 9 (now the front nine of Old Tom), a Ruddy routing with finishing flourishes and greens by Eric Iverson from Renaissance design, was but a kernel of an idea.
Sandy Hills had just opened, however, my somewhat feeble golf game would have been no match for that beasts original form - with it’s ribbon like fairways flanked by ball eating marram.
The opening days play of this trip would see 36 holes over the Old Tom course followed by lunch and then Sandy Hills for a finisher. Despite the fact that the weather did not play ball - think 40kph wind and almost incessant sideways rain rolling in from the North Atlantic - and the fact that I was playing somewhat blind, having only previously played 9 of the 36, a great day was had with shot making galore and not too many provisional balls.
The end result, from a competitive perspective, was nothing to write home about, however, I was invigorated after a long day walking up hill and down dale.
Over the next few days the weather improved and the full delights of both 18 hole courses at Rosapenna were explored on a number of occasions. This part of the trip was counterpointed by a quick trip to the glorious 9 holer at Cruit Island (located about 1.25 hours drive from Rosapenna). You have to make it your business to get to Daniel O’Donnell’s back garden (he has a house backing on to the course) to experience this hand made beauty….you will not regret the effort!
After 4 days in and around Downings, I packed the car up and headed East, bound for The Causeway Coast. Once again I was able to tick off another intriguing 9 holer in the Bann course at Castlerock, surely another gem worth exploring as a warm up for the bigger tests in the area.
A 36 hole two day affair at Royal Portrush finished the golf off for the week. Finally a quick pit stop for High Tea in Holywood, Co. Down and then home on the well worn A1/M1 route to Dublin and a date with the washing machine….back to reality!
Sandy Hills Links
I have come to the conclusion that if you can afford the time, immersion is the way to appreciate the different textural challenges that links conditions dictate. It was for this very reason that after 3 servings of Sandy Hills, I now feel somewhat able to express my thoughts on this very contemporary links in the sky.
From opening in 2005 this Pat Ruddy creation garnered a fearsome reputation as just too bloody difficult. Two elements were undoubtedly at play here:
Sandy Hills is routed through a Special Area of Convservation (SAC). As a result only limited works could be carried out initially to the off piste (rough) areas. Missing the ribbon like fairways assuredly meant a lost ball and a second serve. Thankfully some softening work has been completed over the years, meaning that the course is still a test but does play a mite more sympathetically than on opening day.
Unlike the Old Tom Course which is routed, in the main, through lowland Valleys, the holes at Sandy Hills sit up on the dune structures where the vagaries of the ever present winds buffet and blow you and your ball. Mr. Ruddy just appears to like designing difficult courses and despite the softening you will need to bring your ball striking and control of flight in order to post a score.
Comparatively speaking the front nine at SH hugs the higher landforms, with the holes scattered like a string of pearls strewn across the naturally occurring peaks and troughs high above the flanking Old Tom Morris course.
The back nine, by contrast, is somewhat more prosaic, hugging the somewhat smaller (but still quite sizeable) landforms away from the coast.
A number of holes tantalise the golfer with marker posts planted squarely atop a blind ridge….hit and hope and then the excitement to see whether hope turns to happiness or heart break.
Holes of note include the par 3, 3rd with its infinity style green, the blind drive with reveal at the par 4, 6th and the twin delights of 12 and 15, which almost sing the same song but not quite.
Sandy Hills is often the less travelled course at Rosapenna, this is a shame, and while it is a stiff walk it is assuredly a most enjoyable experience, that compliments both the sporty Old Tom and now the majestic St. Patrick’s next door. Give it a whirl along with its siblings once you’ve done that you can then play the one you liked best again.
Old Tom Morris Links (OTM)
The original links at Rosapenna was staked out by Old Tom Morris in the early 1890’s on a visit to Lord Leitrim, who was the local land owner. Rosapenna would become the first golf resort in Europe complete with a Scandinavian style wooden framed and panelled hotel. Over the first 20 years of its existence it benefitted from course improvements from a great triumvarite of Harry Vardon, James Braid and finally Harry S Colt.
The original front nine is now an entity unto itself, beyond the Downings to Carrigart road, with the Strand 9 now befitting in stature of the class that the Valley nine exudes. As previously mentioned the routing is by Pat Ruddy with finishing by the Renaissance Design team, Eric Iverson (who was essentially the main man on the St. Pat’s project, due to C19’s influence) is responsible for the delightful set of greens.
It is true that Eric’s style is somewhat different to Mr. Colt’s, however, the challenge that his 9 greens represent are equally as enthralling as the more subtle offerings on the back nine at OTM.
The Strand 9 cuts through somewhat more impressive topography, bobbing and weaving like a prize fighter. It is arguable that more guile and understanding is required from the player to understand the various questions that are posed. Repeated play will uncover some of these answers assuming you are open to the questions.
Holes of note include the devilish 6th, where you really need to pick the correct line on drive and approach to hold a shallow kidney shaped green that is pitched away from your line of approach (a word of advice here….the miss is long as it leaves you a pitch back uphill). I am also a huge fan of the tumbling par 5, 8th where a drive to the top of the hill may just leave you with one of the best views on the property to a heaving fairway that asks you to hit a runner to using the contours to feed your ball onto an offset angled green.
The back nine sings a Harry Colt inspired song, restrained asymmetrical bunkering, and a glorious routing that uncovers the delights of a seaside duneal valley structure that obviously cried out ‘golf course’ when it was first viewed by expert eyes. Variety is in evidence in spades in terms of hole length and green placement.. it’s just honest to goodness links golf.
Holes of note include the par 4, 12th with its centreline carry bunker, sitting proudly in the middle of the fairway requiring careful tee-ball placement. The searching test that is the par 3, 14th and the home hole at 18, a straightaway par 5, with a greensite set in the imposing shadow that the golf pavilion and Old Tom’s statue cast over the links.
With three 18’s now available at Rosapenna, it is surely the best resort in Ireland. The secret is now out, book early and often.
Cruit Island
The single lane road that you traverse to reach Cruit Island Golf Club can be seen as a metaphor for the course itself….quirky, unique, unexpected and delightful….this road is routed through tidal marsh, bull-rushes, fern and gorse in a rudimentary and rugged fashion. One of the quirkiest thoroughfares you are ever likely to encounter.
As you enter the golf course property you wind your way past a green (it’s the first) and are advised to beep your horn to alert golfers that you are coming. The first tee shot is played blind over a dune towards this road…. no wonder you need to beep your horn!
The remainder of the course utilises the promontory site to its maximum, sweeping views and heroic carries are interspersed with some of the finest green surfaces I encountered in 2020.
There is a reason that Cruit keeps lofty company in any worldwide 9 hole list, it may be a trek to get here, but a very worthwhile trek it is.
Take a minute to savour the view from the car park, it really is magical. Beware the errant tee shot from the first tee box as you make your way back out the road and indeed any oncoming cars (there will likely be a few). Cruit is perfectly unique….never change!
Bann Course @ Castlerock Golf Club
The quality and density of golf (27 x Castlerock, 54 x Portstewart, 36 x Royal Portrush) available on a stretch of coast running from Coleraine in the west to Portrush in the East (maybe 5 miles as the crow flies) is jaw dropping. It is for this very reason that the Bann Course at Castlerock is often overlooked. It had been on my list to check out so enroute to RP I dropped in to see what I had missed.
The Bann is a wonderful mixture of quirk and ruggedness and represents great value and an even better location to hone those linksy shots that you will undoubtedly need for a few of the tests that you may have ahead of you.
If compelling and bouncey bounce golf are your thing then you should pair this with the main course at Castlerock to make it a 27 hole day. You will not regret the decision.
Royal Portrush was the next stop for 36 over two days. It consistently delights with a subtle combination of thrill, elegance and intrigue and always leaves you yearning for more. If you are interested in reading more about the Dunluce course, please click here for my review and intro to one of Ireland’s best.
If you’re a regular, thanks for returning, if you’re a first timer welcome! Subscriptions below, like, retweet and recommend. The more the merrier! Previous posts can be found here, in case you’ve missed any.
We (James, Ally and myself) are on the ‘verge’ of making an announcement of some import, stay tuned for further information and hopefully a new medium (full information to follow…I promise).
Best
Shane